Boulder to Bangor

Eventually I got out of Denver and it turned out to be an incredible day for flying. Our flight path took us over Lake Michigan, past the shimmering water of Niagara Falls, the Adirondacks, and even Mount Washington said hello in the distance. The plane made a beautiful sweeping turn over the Atlantic as we landed in Portland and it felt so good to be back by the sea.

On the way to pick up the rental, I spotted my first mammal of the trip – a woodchuck nibbling mowed grass right next to the sign for the Portland Airport. Twilight fell quickly on my two-hour drive north to Bangor and the forests lining the highway quickly turned to shadows. I passed many white-tailed deer, and a few unlucky porcupines.

I had plenty of time to settle in and explore on my first day in Bangor (say it right). I took a walk around town, past Stephen King’s famous wrought-iron-gated house and up to the old Thomas Hill Standpipe – the inspiration for the famous Derry Standpipe in “IT”. Eastern gray squirrels foraged amongst the oak trees around town. Later, I took a solitary hike around the nearby Bangor City Forest under a canopy of maple and white pine. Red squirrels (or chickarees), scolded me from above their middens. Along the trail, I crossed paths with a North American porcupine and immediately recollected its distinctly musty scent.

Sailing into Camden and Deer Isle

Soon after, my guests arrived and we began our journey down the coast. Our first stop was Camden, which lays claim to being one of the most picturesque towns in America. I have no reason to disagree! I celebrated my birthday with cupcakes and an obligatory dip into the chilly waters of the bay. That night, we ate at a cozy in one of the cozy seafood restaurants and I feasted on fresh mussels.

From Camden, we boarded a historic schooner and sailed out into Penobscot Bay. We saw many cormorants and guillemots during our voyage, with fantastic weather and high spirits all around.

From Camden, we continued on to Deer Isle, a timeless island of granite quarries, historic inns, and docks stacked high with lobster traps. Cruising to Isle au Haut on the Mail Boat, we got our first looks at harbor seals and gray seals, as well as some fleeing harbor porpoises.

The Rugged Beauty of Acadia

Our journey culminated at Bar Harbor and Acadia National Park – the quintessential coastal Maine experience. We spent our days exploring the park’s legendary landscapes: the Ocean Path with its pounding surf, the reflective calm of Jordan Pond, and the battered granite crags that cling to the Atlantic coast.

Early one morning at Boulder Beach, I experienced a phenomenal sunset. A crack in the clouds at the horizon created the atmospheric conditions for “gap light”, which creates intense colors and light – when it pans out. When it doesn’t, you only get a gray morning, but this morning, boy, did it ever come together.

A few days later, a nor’easter brushed the coast, sending enormous waves smashing against Thunder Hole with spray bursting twenty feet into the air. Just beyond the chaos, a northern river otter loped by me – its distinctive humped silhouette made me feel confident in my ID, but no one else saw it, and I began to second guess myself.

Otters at Sunset

A few days later, I got my proof. We visited the Ocean Path for one last evening of photography. We wandered the boulders, letting the day fade, and just as we were about to head back, spotted movement in the surf. Another seal? No, that’s the nose of an otter! Not one, but two! The second dragging a fish nearly as big as itself. The otters devoured the fish and groomed in the seaweed, giving us a front row seat before engaging in some potential mating behavior and disappearing into the rocks.

The Road Home

The flight home wasn’t smooth — delays, lost luggage, and bad coffee (some superstitious travelers might even say the bad coffee predicted the travel snags). But even as I spent an eternity in the Denver baggage claim at near midnight, exhausted and a bit salty, I couldn’t stop replaying the sights and sounds that made Maine special. The incredible scenery. The down to earth people. Musty porcupines, the soulful eyes of harbor seals, and the thrill of spotting otters. I’m already looking forward to returning next fall!